Soft statement bracelets- crochet and fabric tutorial

These bracelets are one of my new favorite projects. I like crocheted bracelets, Spoonflower fabric, and quotes.

The fabrics for these bracelets is available here- Bracelet Swatch Fabrics, a swatch is 5.00 USD and will make 5 bracelets, or you can use some of it as appliques. I'll be adding more quotes as time goes on. These are too much fun.

The first part is making your very own fabric.

You'll need a graphics program, a quote and an idea for how you want it to look. Remember that making it too busy makes it hard to read the quote. I love my 1st Amendment bracelet, but it's a lot of text on a rainbow background and very busy. Using a soft stroke outline on the text helps it stand out a bit.

Open an image 8 inches wide and 1.6 inches tall at 150 ppi minimum. Lay out your background and text, but remember it has to fit your wrist, so 6 inches wide and 1 inch tall for the text works well. Add graphics if you want, keeping them within the borders of what will fit your wrist when it's stitched into place.

Upload your design to Spoonflower. Set it up so the ppi matches the ppi of your design. Order a swatch. I used their woven cotton.

OR!! You can get really crafty and embroider your statement on fabric!

To make the bracelet:

You will need

• yarn
• appropriate sized hook
• button or buttons
• needle to weave in ends
• fabric
• pinking shears
• embroidery floss
• tapestry needle

Pick a yarn.

 This is Darn Good Yarn Lace Weight Silk Yarn in Exotic Rainbow. It's gorgeous with really short color changes so it's very colorful even on small scale projects. The hand is very soft.

This is a basic size 3 crochet cotton thread. More structure than the silk, and it's a heavier weight so it works up quicker.

Yes, you can use worsted weight, that will be chunkier, but that's a neat look too.

Both bracelets are made close to the same way. Chain approximately 1.5 inches, single crochet a few rows, then you make your button hole. The button hole is made by figuring how big the button you're using is, and how many stitches across that is, then you subtract that number from the number in your base row, and divide that number by 2. sc that many stitches, chain the number of stitches for your hole, skip those stitches, and then sc to the end. So for the cotton bracelet, it was 8 stitches wide, and my button would fit into a 4 stitch hole.
8-4=4
4/2=2
Sc in first 2 stitches, chain 4, skip 4 stitch, sc in last 2 stitches, turn.

Then continue working back and forth until it's long enough to fit around your wrist with a 1 inch overlap. Break off, weave in ends.

For the silk, I used a size 0 steel hook and 11 stitches. For the cotton, I used a size D hook and 8 stitches.

The fabric needs to be washed, but because it's just a very small piece, I hand washed it and laid it flat to dry. Use the pinking shears to cut the strip and cut off the ends to fit on your bracelet. Press the fabric. Again, tiny piece. Rather than set up an ironing board and iron, I just used my daughter's hair straightening iron!

Stitch the strip into place. I used a running stitch. Starting it, I made a knot at the end of the thread with a few inches tail. Pulled it up through the fabric alone, then went down into both the fabric and the crocheted bracelet, then stitched around the entire patch. When I got to the end, I tied the thread off to the tail in a firm knot, then buried the ends in the crochet.

The button on the 1st Amendment bracelet is one from my mom's button box. The buttons on the Nevertheless bracelet are stacked inexpensive plastic buttons because I love how the colors pop that way.

The No Censorship pinback is from the early 90s. My family was advocating against a local measure and I still have several of them.

Bubble Necklace

Bubble Necklace

Size 10 crochet cotton
Size 7 hook
Tapestry needle
scissors
one of those bubble things for weddings I bought a box of 50, but hopefully you know people who might have them or who you can share them with, or if you want, you could make them for craft shows and the like.

Ch 2 or magic ring start.
Rnd 1: sc 6 times in first ch or magic ring, sl st to join.
Rnd 2: ch 1 (doesn't count as first stitch) 2 sc in each st, sl st to join (12 sts)
Rnd 3-4: ch 1 (doesn't count as first stitch) sc in each st, sl st to join (12 sts)
Rnd 5: ch 1(doesn't count as first stitch) sc in same stitch, *ch 3, skip stitch, sc in next st* repeat ** 4 more times, on the last loop, ch 1, dc in first sc (6 loops)
Rnd 6-20: ch 1 (doesn't count as first stitch), sc in loop, *ch 3, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 4 more times, ch 1, dc in first sc (6 loops)
Rnd 21: ch 1 (doesn't count as first stitch), sc in loop, ch 1, *sc in next loop, ch 1* repeat ** around, sl st to first sc (6 ch 1 spaces)
Rnd 22-23: ch 1 (doesn't count as first st), sc in each stitch and space around. sl st to join. (12 sts)

Chain a length long enough to slip over your head (or a child's head) easily, slip stitch to join on the other side, sl st back up the ch, sl st in starting st, break off and weave in ends. Put the bubble tube in it.

Little Kitty Charm- crochet pattern

Right now I'm working on a knitted scarf for my husband. He wears scarves throughout the winter then they get misplaced in the summer. I had to take a short break and hooked up a bunch of these little charms last night.


You will need:
A small amount of size 10 thread in your choice of colors
size 6 steel hook (1.8 mm)
tapestry needle
scissors
stiffener (optional, I didn't use it)

Terminology is American

sc= single crochet
ch= chain
dc=double crochet
sl st= slip stitch

Chain 6

Rnd 1: Ch 6, dc in first ch, ch 16, dc in 6th ch from hook, ch 2, sl st to join
Rnd 2: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc 3 times in "ear", ch 3, sl st in first ch (picot made), sc 3 times in ear, sc 16 times in big loop,  sc 3 times in "ear", ch 3, sl st in first ch (picot made), sc 3 times in ear, 2 sc in top of "head". Sl st to join.

If you want to add a loop, sl st back one stitch, chain 5, sl st in next sc in top of the head. If you're going to put it on a safety pin like I did, you might want to break off the yarn to pull the chain through the bottom loop before the final slip stitch.

Weave in ends. Block and stiffen if desired.

They are so quick. I'm going to try one later with beaded single crochets!

Fun Hood Pattern (crochet)

Originally when I ordered this chunky yarn from Darn Good Yarn it was going to be for a shawl- which I frogged 3 times. Then told my husband "What I really want is a hat!
A fun hat. It was before our day cruise and I wanted a fun and warm hat to wear on the cruise.
Once I had that figured out, it just flew off the hook- even with keeping notes for writing up the pattern.

The yarn is stunning. As good as the colors look, the spin is lovely, very regular and the texture is so very soft. When I pulled it out of the the envelope, I told my husband that he had to touch my yarn.

Here it is! I hope you enjoy this too.

3 skeins of Super Soft and Chunky Reclaimed Silk Yarn
Size K hook
Scrap of cardboard to make pom poms or tassel
Scissors
large yarn needle for weaving in ends.

American terminology
ch=chain
sc= single crochet
dc= double crochet
sl st= slip stitch
st or sts= stitches
rsc= reverse single crochet- you can use a single crochet, it will look a little different.
repeat ** means repeat the steps between the asterisks.

Ch 1
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 7 dc in first ch, sl st to top of ch 3 to join. (8 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next 7 sts, sl st to join (8 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in next st, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat ** 2 more times, sl st to join (12 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st and each st around. Sl st to join (12 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st*, repeat ** 2 times, sl st to join (16 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st and each st around. Sl st to join (16 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st*, repeat ** 2 times, sl st to join (20 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next st and each st around. Sl st to join (20 sts)
Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st*, repeat ** 2 times, sl st to join (24 sts)
Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next st and each st around. Sl st to join (24 sts)
Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st,*dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st*, repeat ** 2 times, sl st to join (28 sts)
Rnd 12: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next st and each st around. Sl st to join (28 sts)
Rnd 13: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st,*dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st*, repeat ** 2 times, sl st to join (32 sts)
Rnd 14: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next st and each st around. Sl st to join (32 sts)
Rnd 15: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st,*dc in next 7 sts, 2 dc in next st*, repeat ** 2 times, sl st to join (36 sts)
Rnd 16: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next st and each st around. Sl st to join (36 sts)
Rnd 17: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next 7 sts, 2 dc in next st,*dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st*, repeat ** 2 times, sl st to join (40 sts)
Rnd 18: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next st and each st around. Sl st to join (40 sts)
Rnd 19: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st,*dc in next 9 sts, 2 dc in next st*, repeat ** 2 times, sl st to join (44 sts)
Rnd 20: Ch 3 (counts as first dc),dc in next st and each st around. Sl st to join (44 sts)

Break off yarn.
Count 5 stitches from break off and join in new skein

Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), sc in same stitch, sc in next 32 sts
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), rsc in each st across.
Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in first st, sc in each st until last st, 2 sc in last st (35 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), rsc in each st across.
Row 5: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in first st, sc in each st until last st, 2 sc in last st (37 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), rsc in each st across.
Row 7: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in first st, sc in each st until last st, 2 sc in last st (39 sts)
Row 8: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), rsc in each st across.
Row 9: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in first st, sc in each st until last st, 2 sc in last st (41 sts)
Row 10: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), rsc in each st across.
Row 11: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in first st, sc in each st until last st, 2 sc in last st (43 sts)
Row 12: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), rsc in each st across.
Row 13: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in first st, sc in each st until last st, 2 sc in last st (45 sts)
Row 14: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), rsc in each st across.
Row 15: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in first st, sc in each st until last st, 2 sc in last st (47 sts)
Row 16: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc), rsc in each st across.

Break off.

Rejoin yarn in the back, and single crochet around the base of the hood, at the tips of the ear flaps, put in 3 single crochets to work around the corner. sl st to join.
Ch 1, single crochet around, at the center of the 3 sc at the tip of the ear flaps, sc, ch 50, sl st back up ch, sc in same st, continue sc around to tip of the second ear flap, repeat.

Make 3 pom poms or tassels, one large, 2 small. Attach the large one to the pointy top of the hat and the other 2 to the cords for the hood.


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Use code NEWSUBSCRIBER at checkout for 10% off! (affiliate link)

Bulky Handspun Crochet Jar Cozy (fits pint sized jar)

This is going to be my 100th design on my Ravelry page! I feel like I should be celebrating.


This jar cozy was made using a skein of handspun yarn from a local spinner. It's 6 wpi so the pattern will work with bulky-super bulky yarns. Just check the gauge! The same technique will work for finer yarns, increasing stitches. I'll be doing a version in a worsted weight cotton soon.

I had this half finished and was trying to figure out how to cinch the top so it wouldn't just be a sleeve when I spotted my hair elastics. I put one around the top of the jar and it was perfect! So the last round is stitched around that.

Wool Jar Cozy Pattern

Pattern is in American terminology

Gauge- First 4 rounds=3.5 inches

Supplies needed:

• 40-50 yards of  bulky yarn or hand spun that's 6 wpi
• size K hook
• yarn needle
• no metal thin hair elastic OR strong cord elastic. 
• scissors

Fits 1 pint Ball® canning jar- regular mouth

Abbreviations:

• ch= chain
• sc = single crochet
• dc= double crochet
• sl st= slip stitch
• st or sts= stitch or stitches

Ch 2 or magic circle, chain 1

Round 1: sc 6 times in first stitch/ring, sl st to join (6 sts)

Round 2: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), 2 sc in each st around, sl st to join (12 sts)

Round 3: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to join. (18 stitches)

Round 4: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st,* repeat ** around, sl st to join (24 sts)

Round 5: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in each st around (24 sts)

Round 6: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, dc in each st around, sl st in 3rd chain to join (24 stitches)

Round 7: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in each st around (24 sts)

Round 8: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in each st around (24 sts)

Round 9: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, dc in each st around, sl st in 3rd chain to join (24 stitches)

Round 10: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in each st around (24 sts)

Round 11: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in each st around (24 sts)

Round 12: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, dc in each st around, sl st in 3rd chain to join (24 stitches)

Round 13: Holding the elastic in place on top of the stitches- ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in each stitch around working over the elastic, sl st to join. (24 sts)

Weave in ends and put on your jar. 

This will help keep cool drinks cool and hot drinks hot. 

Tasseled Crochet Amulet Bag pattern- with tassel tutorial

Tasseled Crochet Amulet Bag Pattern:
Materials:

• Red Heart Fashion Crochet Thread- size 3 (less than one ball) 
• Size C hook
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle
• Piece of cardboard about 5 inches long

U.S. crochet terms used.

Abbreviations:

• ch = chain
• sc =single crochet
• dc= double crochet
• sl st= slip stitch
• st or sts= stitch or stitches
• repeat ** means to repeat the instructions between the asterisks. 

Ch 2

Round 1: 8 sc in ch 1, sl st to join (8 stitches)
Round 2: ch 1 (does not count as first st), 2 sc in each st around, sl st to join (16 stitches)
Round 3: ch 1 (does not count as first st), sc in each st around, sl st to join (16 stitches)
Round 4: ch 1 (does not count as first st) sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (24 sts)

Rounds 5-17:ch 1 (does not count as first st), sc in each st around, sl st to join

Round 18: ch 3, dc in next st, ch 2, skip 2 stitches, *dc in next st, dc in next st, ch 2, sk 2 stitches*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (6 spaces)
Round 19: ch 1 (does not count as first st), sc in each st around, sl st to join (24 sts)
Round 20: ch 1 (does not count as first st), sc in first st, sc in next st, ch 3, skip next st,*sc in next 3 sts, ch 3, skip next st*, repeat ** around, in last st, sc, sl st to join. (6 loops made)
Round 21: ch 1 (does not count as first st), sc in first st, skip next stitch, 5 sc in loop, *skip next st, sc in next st, skip next st, 5 sc in loop*, sl st to join.

To make the tassel:
Photo examples use embroidery floss because it was handy and I could use contrasting colors. I didn't wrap it around a template. Please excuse the dirty table. I was in a rush to get photos so I could get back outside- and I went outside to put this together. GORGEOUS weather!

Find something a half inch longer than you want the tassel to be or cut a piece of cardboard that's long enough.

Double a length of thread 20 inches long and lay it down across the top of your template.

Wrap it, I did 50 wraps for a full tassel.

Pull the doubled length around the top and tie it firmly. I used a square knot, then tied another overhand knot over that.

Cut a piece of thread 20 inches long and a piece 8 inches long.

Fold the short thread and lay it length wise on the tassel body with the loop end pointing to the bottom (fringe) of the tassel.
Tie the long thread near the top of the tassel with a short tail length going down the tassel in a simple half knot around both the tassel and the short thread. I made it the same length as the rest of the tassel.

Wrap evenly and tightly for as long as you want the wrap to be. Tie another half knot.

Put the tail through the loop of the short strand.

Pull the free ends of the short piece sharply and quickly to pull the end under the wraps. Trim the top thread neatly.

With the doubled ends on the top of the tassel, pull them through the bottom of the bag using a crochet hook, I spaced them between the stitches on the first round. Tie in a secure knot- I used a square knot then doubled it. Trim ends.

Crochet a cord or make a twist cord and weave into the double crochet spaces. Weave in all ends.

2 Glove Edgings - crochet

Both of these patterns are from my old blog- pictures and text from 2006 (wow! Was it really that long ago??)

Easy Lacy Scalloped Edging

• Size 10 crochet cotton
• Size 9 hook- gauge isn't really important, so if you're more comfortable with a larger hook size use that.
• scissors
• a pair of "magic stretch gloves" - also works on socks.

Working into the top of the glove, or sock, or whatever you are adding your edging too..

Rnd 1= Attach thread to glove, chain 4, first chain counts as sc, sc just a bit away. chain 3, sc into glove, ch 3, sc into glove, repeat for a multiple of 5 loops counting the first one. In my example, I used 35 loops. For last loop, ch 3, slipstitch to join in first ch, slipstitch to top of chain 3.

Round 2= ch 1, *sc in loop, ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 3, sc in next loop, 5 dc in next loop*, repeat from ** around. On last 5 dc shell, slipstitch to join to the first sc, slipstitch to top of chain 3.

Round 3= ch 1 *sc in loop, ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 1, dc in first dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1* repeat ** on last ch 1, slipstitch to join with first sc, slipstitch to top of ch 3. (5 dc per scallop)

Round 4= ch 1, *sc in loop, ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 2, dc in first dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2* repeat around, slipstitch to join to first sc, slipstitch to top of ch 3. (5 dc per scallop)

Round 5= ch 1, *sc in loop, ch 1 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 1, dc in dc, ch 1 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 1, dc in dc, ch 1 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 1, dc in dc, ch 1 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 1, dc in dc, ch 1 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 1, dc in dc, ch 2* repeat around. Slipstitch to join last ch 2 to first sc, slipstitch into chain 1 space. (11 dc per scallop)

Round 6= ch 1, sc in ch 1 space, ch 3, *sc in next ch 1 space, ch 3* repeat around, slipstitch to join, break off thread, weave in ends.

Another Easy Glove Edging

• size 10 cotton
• size 9 hook or whatever your most comfortable with.
• 2 buttons
• tapestry needle that will fit the size 10 cotton and still go through the button holes. I've got no clue what size I used.

Rnd 1-The first row is spaced with the ribbing on the gloves, I placed each sc right under the "down" rib in the top of the glove, ch 3, sc right below the next down rib.Insert the hook into the gloves right below the cuff vertically to work the first row of net. 

When you get to the last ch 3 , instead of chain 3, ch 1, dc in first ch. 
Rnd 2-Now you are on top of the last loop you made, ch 1,(does not count as first sc) sc in that loop, ch 3, *sc in next loop, ch 3* repeat around until you reach the last loop, ch 1, dc in first sc.
Rnd 3- ch 1,(does not count as first sc) sc in the last loop of the previous row, ch 3, sc in the same loop, *ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 3, sc in same loop* repeat around. End by ch 1, dc in first sc (double the number of loops for the first round)
Rnd 4- ch 1,(does not count as first sc) sc, ch 3, *sc in next loop, ch 3* repeat around. This round you do end with a chain 3, slipstitch it to the first sc. Weave in ends.
That's the ruffle.

Now make the flowers. Oh so easy! 
Rnd 1- Ch 6 tightly, slipstitch to form a ring.
Rnd 2- working into the ring, ch 1,(does not count as first sc) sc, ch 3, sc, ch 3, sc, ch 3, sc, ch 3, sc, ch 3, sc, ch 3, slipstitch to join to first sc. (6 ch 3 loops)
Rnd 3, ch 1(does not count as first sc), *sc in sc. Ch 2, 5 dc in ch 3 loop, ch 2,* repeat on each ch 3 loop, slipstitch to join. Weave in ends.

Thread the needle with a bit of the cotton, and attach the flower to the glove with the buttons.

Of course, like the first one, it would work with socks too, only you'd put the ruffle on the top of the sock and the flower a bit below it on the inside so when you folded down the cuff it would show.

Super Speedy Sari Silk Shawl (crochet)

I couldn't resist the alliteration, but if I were going to give it another name, it would be Rainbow Crow shawl, because the soft effect of the frayed edges of the recycled sari silk ribbon and all the colors reminds me of the story of Rainbow Crow.

By super speedy- you can make a small version of this shawl in an evening with 4 skeins of Darn Good Yarn's Tibet Jewels. The full sized version in my photos is made using 7 skeins and took 2 evenings of tv watching. Probably 6 hours? Maybe less.

Tibet Jewels is the easiest of the sari ribbons I've found to wind into balls, and it has so much texture and color it's just amazing.

The 4 ball version- the finished size without the fringe is 52 inches along the hypotenuse and 26 inches deep.

You will need:

• 7 (or 4) balls of Tibet Jewels 
• Size S crochet hook 
• Scissors
• Size P crochet hook for putting on the fringe

So this is a bottom up shawl, and once you start, it just flies off your hook.
American terminology
Stitches used:
ch=chain
sc=single crochet
tr= treble crochet
sl st= slip stitch
st or sts= stitch or stitches

Chain 7, sl st to join in a ring

Row 1: Chain 5, sc in ring, ch 2, tr in ring (2 loops)
Row 2: Ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 2, tr in 3rd st of ch 5 from previous row (3 loops)
Row 3: Ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 3, sc in next loop,ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 2, tr in 3rd st of ch 5 from previous row (4 loops)
Row 4: Ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 3, sc in next loop, work across the same way- at the last loop, ch 2, tr in ch 3 of beginning ch 5 of previous row.
Keep repeating Row 4. Each row will be one loop wider than the row before it.

For the 4 skein variation- when you get close to the end of the 3rd ball of yarn, finish that row and if you need to add in the 4th skein to finish, do that. Then break off leaving the tail long enough to be one of the fringe, and cut your fringe. Put a fringe at the base of each row along the short sides, and one in the center of the beginning chain 7.

For the 7 skein variation- complete 26 rows, and break off leaving a 13 inch tail. Cut 53 fringe pieces 26 inches long (if you want it like mine, shorter fringe is fine) and put one fringe at the base stitch of each row. (where the rows join)

Attach the fringe by inserting your P hook into the stitch at the base of each row- where they join up, and fold the fringe in half, pull a loop though, then pull the ends through the loop.

This is 3 balls crocheted up-

Sunshine Shawl- crochet pattern

So this shawl has a bit of a story. When I finished my rainbow shawl- I had some yellows, oranges and reds leftover from the yarn sets I ordered for it. So I thought "Hey, I could make a sunshine shawl! and started it promptly with the idea it would be a simple half round with points!

It took a couple starts and restarts, but it did work out. However, I didn't keep notes, figuring I'd count it all up to write the pattern. But then within a day or two after showing it off and promising a pattern, I got a nasty virus and the idea of trying to work out the pattern was just more than I could handle.

This is one of my husband's favorite shawls on me. I'm not sure why, but he really likes this one!

You will need:
Darn Good Yarn Chiffon Ribbon 
2 skeins of orange
3 skeins of dark orange
2 skein of red
2 skein of yellow
There will be some leftover. I'm kind of guessing since some of it was leftover from the first shawl.

Size N hook
Scissors
Large needle or small hook to weave in ends
Because of the nature of the yarn, you can knot in color changes.
Pattern is in American terminology

sc= single crochet
ch=chain
dc=double crochet
sl st=slip stitch
Each odd number round begins ch 5, sc in first loop, and ends with ch 2, dc in first sc of previous round.
Each even number round is ch 1 to turn, sc in same stitch, ch 5, sc in next loop all the way across, then ends in ch 5, sc in 3rd chain from first ch 5 of the previous row. So the even number rounds have 1 less loop than the odd number round before it.

The odd number rounds have the increases, which are chain 5, sc in same loop.

Red
Chain 6- sl st to close

Round 1: Ch 5, sc in ring, ch 5, sc in ring, ch 5, sc in ring, ch 5, sc in ring, ch 2, dc in ring (5 loops)

Round 2: Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 times, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first 5 from previous round. (4 loops)

Round 3: Ch 5, sc in first loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 2, dc in first sc of previous round. (7 loops)

Round 4: Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat across round until the last loop, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first ch 5 on the previous row. (6 loops)

Round 5: Ch 5, sc in first loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 2, dc in next loop. (9 loops)

Round 6: Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat across round until the last loop, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first ch 5 on the previous row. (8 loops)

Round 7: Ch 5, sc in first loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5 sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 2, dc in first sc of previous round. (11 loops)

Round 8:  Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat across round until the last loop, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first ch 5 on the previous row. (10 loops)
Orange
Round 9:  Ch 5, sc in first loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times, ch 2, dc in first sc of previous round. (13 loops)

Round 10: Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat across round until the last loop, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first ch 5 on the previous row. (12 loops)

Round 11: Ch 5, sc in first loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 4 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 2, dc in first sc of previous round. (17 loops)
Yellow
Round 12: Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat across round until the last loop, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first ch 5 on the previous row. (16 loops)

Round 13: Ch 5, sc in first loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop* repeat ** 2 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 4 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop* repeat ** 2 more times, ch 2, dc in first sc of previous round. (21 loops)
Dark Orange
Round 14: Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat across round until the last loop, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first ch 5 on the previous row. (20 loops)

Round 15: Ch 5, sc in first loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 4 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times, ch 2, dc in first sc of previous round. (27 loops)

Round 16: Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat across round until the last loop, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first ch 5 on the previous row. (26 loops)

Round 17: Ch 5, sc in first loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 4 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times, ch 2, dc in first sc of previous round. (31 loops)

Round 18: Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat across round until the last loop, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first ch 5 on the previous row. (30 loops)

Round 19: Ch 5, sc in first loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 3 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 3 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 4 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 3 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 3 more times, ch 2, dc in first sc of previous round. (35 loops)

Round 20: Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat across round until the last loop, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first ch 5 on the previous row. (34 loops)
Orange
Round 21: ch 5, sc in first loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 2 more times,ch 5, sc in same loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 2 more times,ch 2, dc in first sc of previous round (45 loops)

Round 22: Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat across round until the last loop, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first ch 5 on the previous row. (44 loops)

Round 23: ch 5, sc in first loop,*ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 7 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 6 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 12 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 6 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop,* repeat ** 7 more times, ch 2, dc in first sc of previous round (49 loops)
Red
Round 24: Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat across round until the last loop, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first ch 5 on the previous row. (48 loops)
Dark Orange
Round 25:Ch 5, sc in first loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 15 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 14 more times, ch 5, sc in same loop, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 15 more times, ch 2, dc in first sc of previous round (51 loops)

Round 26: Ch 1 to turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat across round until the last loop, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch from first ch 5 on the previous row. (50 loops)

Start the points-
Attaching yarn from one tip:
Row 1:Sc in first sc, *ch 5, sc in next sc*, repeat ** 5 more times, ch 2, dc in next sc, (7 loops)
Row 2: ch 1,turn, sc in dc, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 4 more times, ch 2, dc in top of first loop of previous row. (6 loops)
Row 3: ch 1,turn, sc in dc, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 3 more times, ch 2, dc in top of first loop of previous row. (5 loops)
Row 4: ch 1,turn, sc in dc, *ch 5, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 2 more times, ch 2, dc in top of first loop of previous row. (4 loops)
Row 5: ch 1,turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop,  ch 2, dc in top of first loop of previous row.  (3 loops)
Row 6: ch 1,turn, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 2, dc in top of first loop of previous row. (2 loops)
Row 7: ch 1,turn, sc in dc, ch 6, sl in 4th chain from hook, ch 2, sc in top of first loop of previous row, break off. (1 loop with picot)

Start the next point in the same stitch as the end of the row 1 of the previous point.
7 points total. I used yellow for every other point, then used other colors in between the yellow. Adapt the points to the colors you have left after working the body of the shawl.
Weave in ends.

Darn Good Apple Cozy

I can't even tell you how much I love this yarn. I got a skein in a grab bag from Darn Good Yarn and balled it up and just pet it and stroked it until I had a plan for it. It's made from banana fibers! So yes, I wrapped my apple in bananas.

Darn Good Yarn Banana Fiber - they also have a gorgeous multicolor version- Kaleidoscope Banana Fiber

It's soft, fluffy, absolutely touchable. One ball will make an apple cozy with some leftover for making a bracelet or other accessory, 2 balls will make 3 apple cozies. The cozies fit the "school boy" sized small apples, but it would be easy to adjust the pattern for one of those huge apples if you're really apple crazy.

You will need:
Banana fiber yarn
Size K crochet hook
scissors
smaller hook to weave in ends OR a ribbon threaded through a tapestry needle to make a loop works too. The yarn does not go through needles easily.

Time- very short. These are quick, easy and make great gifts.
American terminology
Stitches:
chain=ch
sc= single crochet
dc= double crochet
sl st= slip stitch
st or sts=stitch or stitches
dec sc= insert hook in first st, yarn over, pull loop through, insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull loop through, yarn over, pull through all three loops on the hook.
Repeat ** means repeat the instructions between the asterisks.

Ch 2 or magic ring
Round 1: 6 sc in first ch or magic ring. Sl st to join (6 sts)
Round 2: ch 1 (does not count as first st) 2 sc in each st around, sl st to join (12 sts)
Round 3:  ch 1 (does not count as first st) sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to join. (18 sts)
Round 4: ch 1 (does not count as first st) sc in each st, sl st to join (18 sts)
Round 5: ch 1 (does not count as first st) sc in each st, sl st to join (18 sts)

Now we switch to back and forth rows.

Row 1: ch 1 (does not count as first st), sc in same st, sc in next 15 sts (16 sc)
Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as first st) dec sc over first two sts, sc in next 12 sts, dec sc in last 2 sts. (14 sc)
Row 3: ch 1 (does not count as first st) dec sc over first two sts, sc in next 10 sts, dec sc in last 2 sts. (12 sc)
Row 4: ch 1 (does not count as first st) sc in each st (12 sts)
Row 5: chain 15 at end of row 4. Sc in second chain from hook, dc in next 7 sts, sc in next st, sl st in next 5 ch, sc in next 12 sts, ch 15, turn, Sc in second chain from hook, dc in next 7 sts, sc in next st, sl st in next 5 ch, sl st to join. Break off and weave in ends.

Yay! Apple cozy done! In 5 rounds and 5 rows. Put in apple, tie the ties once.

Coming as soon! A pattern for my sunshine shawl.

Festival Bun Cover- Photon Yarn

I'm so wild for this yarn, and the long bohemian fringe of it hanging from this bun cover.

The bun cover is actually made in 2 parts. The cover is one, and the fall is the other, so you can wear it without the fall. The yarn is Darn Good Yarn's Recycled Photon Rainbow Sport Weight Silk Yarn.
(check out this bracelet pattern in the same yarn)

To make this festive bun cover you will need:

• 2 thick no metal hair elastics
• Recycled Photon Rainbow Sportweight Silk Yarn
• Size G hook
• Yarn needle
• Scissors

Stitches=

• ch=chain
• sc= single crochet
• dc=double crochet
• sl st= slip stitch
• st or sts= stitch or stitches
• repeat ** means repeat the instructions between the asterisks.

American terminology

Bun cover:
Ch 8, sl st to join
Round 1: Chain 1 loosely (counts as first stitch), 11 sc in ring, sl st to ch 1 to join (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 5 (first dc and ch 2), *dc in next st, ch 2, * repeat ** 10 times, sl st to 3rd st in beginning ch 5 to join (12 spaces)
Round 3: ch 1 loosely, 2 sc in space, *sc in next st, 2 sc in space*, repeat ** 10 times, sl st to first chain to join (36 sts)
Round 4: Ch 5, skip 2 sts, *dc in next st, ch 2*, repeat ** 10 times, sl st to 3rd st in beginning ch 5 to join. (12 spaces)
Round 5: Repeat round 4
Round 6- Hold hair elastic against the last round, and single crochet over the hair elastic into the stitches on the last round to encase and attach the elastic. Sc in each stitch around, sl st to join. Break off, weave in ends.

Hair fall-
Cut 18 lengths of yarn twice as long + 2 inches as you want the fall to be. Working with 2 strands at a time, pull them through the other elastic and tie in overhand knot close to the elastic.

To wear it, you make your bun- I just twist a section of hair up and hold it in place while slipping the bun cover over, then hold the bun cover in place while putting the fall over it. Slip a nice hair stick through weaving it into your bun to lock it into position.

The bun cover above is made with Darn Good Yarn's Chiffon Ribbon, and I'm giving the pattern to them exclusively. Follow Darn Good Yarn and Shala's Beadwork and Printables on Facebook to find out when it's posted! (I'll also update this entry then) 

Recycled Chiffon Ribbon Purse

I'm wild for Darn Good Yarn's recycled yarn. This is actually the project that I originally ordered yarn for- a cross body hippie bohemian bag made in bright colors was just what I wanted. The bag is quite simple to make- it uses just chains, slip stitches and single crochets that show off the beauty and variations in the recycled yarn.

The purse takes just over 2 skeins of yarn- you can make it with 2 skeins if you do something simpler for the strap. You could make your own rag yarn, but the advantage to this yarn is that the thin chiffon makes a very workable yarn. The chiffon is sourced from saris and it's fair trade. I have this weird hangup about purses. Beyond preferring cross body and big enough for the stuff I carry daily, I also like recycled or upcycled. I buy my purses used, or handmade, or make them myself.

Click here for a discount on yarn! - the discount applies to your first purchase from Darn Good Yarn, and because of their amazing loyalty program, I'll get a credit to help pay for more pretty things from them! They have several assortments of the yarn used, it's more yarn than you'll need for this project, but that's good because I'll be posting a basket tutorial soon too and there are a lot of other things to do with the yarn. Check out the chiffon ribbon color packs. The color I used is Istanbul.

So first- some tips.

The yarn is going to have some natural variation. I noticed that some of the joins are stitched, and some are knotted. It also has raw edges that can unravel a bit. When you're balling it up, work a loose ball and don't use a ball winder. I wound center pull balls around my fist working nice and loose with a pair of scissors to trim long raveled edges as I wound. The skeins are easy to work with. One end is knotted, so you'll need to unknot it carefully when you reach the end. 

While you're crocheting, you may run across a join that's too bulky, just unknot it or clip it, taper the ends of the ribbons and tie a new overhand knot. Make sure you don't taper too narrow. It's so exciting watching the colors that are coming up next.  

The chiffon yarn is stronger than you'd think, it twists as you crochet into something like a ribbon rope.  You can use anything from a size K to a size Q hook easily with this- but since I wanted a purse that I may or may not line, I used a K for a nice tight stitch. 

Chiffon Ribbon Purse Pattern

American terminology

You will need: 

• 2-3 skeins of Chiffon Ribbon Yarn
• size K crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• 1 inch button 

• Ch=chain
• sl st= slip stitch
• st or sts= stitch or stitches
• sc= single crochet

Chain 17 stitches, insert hook in second chain from hook and slip stitch to the end (this reinforces the bottom) 

Round 1: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc) sc in first st, sc in next 14 sts, sc 4 times in end st, working down the other side, sc next 14 sts, 3 sc in end st, sl st to join (36 sts)

Round 2: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in same st, sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sl st to join. (40 sts)

Round 3:   Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in same st, sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, sl st to join (44 sts) 

Base formed

Rounds 4-17:  Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), sc in same st, sc in each st around, sl st to join. Break off, weave in end. 

Strap: 

Chain 80-90 depending on the length you'd like. I like a longer strap so it hangs close to my hip. 

Sc in second chain from hook, sc in each st. 

Ch 1 to turn, sc in each st. Break off. 

Count back 2 sts from joining st on the bag, and stitch strap in place in next 2 sts. Count 20 sts from strap on one side, and join on the other side. 

Button hole tab- count 8 sts from strap on bag and join in yarn. Single crochet in that stitch and next 4 sts.

Rows 2-8: ch 1 to turn, sc in each st across

Row 9: ch 1 to turn, sc in first st, ch 2, sc in last st

Row 10-11: ch 1 to turn, sc in each st

Row 12: ch 1, skip first st, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in last st. Break off, weave in ends. 

Put the flap over the front and mark where to sew in button. Sew on button. I had a big shank on mine so I was able to use the chiffon ribbon. Otherwise just use strong thread or embroidery floss.

I haven't decided if I'm lining it or not. If I do, I'll use one my husband's old, stained shirts to keep with the recycled theme, and possibly a salvaged zipper. My daughter saves zippers and buttons off the thrifted clothing she upcycles into costumes. 

Hand Sanitizer Backpack Clip crochet pattern

Time for back to school, or you might be like me and find it sometimes helpful to have a small bottle of hand sanitizer available. This was designed for a store brand sanitizer- Kroger to be specific. This crochet pattern might need modification for other bottles to make it fit, but since the only shaping is in the neck area, it should be easy to adjust.

Hand Santizer Backpack Clip Crochet Pattern

You will need:

• 2 colors of worsted weight yarn- I used Caron Simply Soft 
• Size G or H hook
• Carabiner clip with split ring
• 5/8th inch button
• Embroidery floss
• yarn needle to weave in ends
• tapestry needle to sew on button
• hand sanitizer- mine is a Kroger brand 2 oz bottle

Stitches:

• sc=single crochet
• dc=double crochet
• sl st=slip stitch
• ch=chain
• st or sts= stitch or stitches

Gauge- 3.5 single crochet stitches per inch, 4 rows per inch

Take the ring off your carabiner and slide it on to the main color yarn, push it up out of the way.

Chain 12 loosely, sl st to join being careful not to twist chain

Rnd 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in same stitch, sc in each st around, sl st to join (12 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in same stitch,sc in next stitch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sl st to join (16 sts) - this round makes the increases and the shoulders of the bottle
Rnds 3-12: Ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in same stitch, sc in each st around, sl st to join (16 sts)
Round 13: Ch 3 (counts as first stitch), dc in next stitch, slide the ring down and around the hook and stitches so it's hanging freely from the ch and dc, sc in next st, sc in each st around, sl st to top chain to join.
Round 14: Ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in same stitch, sc in each st around, sl st to join (16 sts)
Break off yarn and weave in ends

Flap:
Join in accent color 2 stitches before the last stitch of the previous round.
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in same stitch,sc in next 5 stitches
Row 2-9: Ch 1 to turn (does not count as first stich),sc in same stitch, sc in each stitch across (6 sts)
Row 10:  Ch 1 to turn (does not count as first stich),sc in same stitch, sc in next st, ch 2 loosely, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, sc in next st.
Row 11-12:Ch 1 to turn (does not count as first stich),sc in same stitch, sc in each stitch across (6 sts)
Break off yarn, weave in ends.

Put the bottle in the pouch, and pull flap over the bottle, mark where the button will go, and stitch button into place.

Put carabiner on split ring and attach to backpack.

The nice thing about this is that it's easy to take the bottle out to refill or replace it, and you can make it in any colors. So you can match for school spirit, or you can use your favorite colors. Acrylic yarn makes it washable.

This is the bottle I used.

Easy crochet slippers pattern

The story behind this pattern-
My grandmother had a friend who used to knit slippers. I think it was the only thing he knew how to knit, and he would knit hundreds of pairs over the course of a year. In different sizes and colors, everybody had a pair of slippers he made. He knit them long and narrow for grandma, short for kids like me, and large pairs for men. The secret is that it was a super simple slipper, knit in the round a bit over halfway, then knit flat the rest of the way in garter stitch. He'd use the tail from knitting the toe to cinch it up into a circle, then the tail from the end to stitch the back seam. All done.

Making a pair in crochet that was as easy to adapt has been a plan for a while, and one that I finally did this weekend. Using a bulky yarn, and a size K hook, they stitch up really fast. But you could easily adapt it for worsted or even thread. The trick is just getting the toe right, so you may experiment to get the right number of stitches and increases for that, then the rest of the slippers are a breeze. They can also be adapted in other ways. Make the vamp shorter and add a strap for Mary Jane style slippers, or a drawstring or bow for ballet type slippers. So as I work on adaptations for this patterns, I'll post those patterns. But feel free to play with it however you want. The heel on my slippers has some very slight shaping to make it more fitted than the hand knit originals.

Overview- Crochet in the round in double crochets, making increases until it fits around your foot, then continue crocheting in the round until it's close to long enough to reach your ankle. Crochet in rows after that for 3/4s (rounded up to an even number of stitches) of the total circumference until it's near to heel length. The heel has some small shaping- so crochet that with doubles, half doubles, singles in the middle, then work out the other way to mirror the first side. Seam the heel. Crochet single crochets in each stitch around. Weave in all ends.

So here's the actually pattern to make a pair of women's medium slippers-

dc= double crochet
ch= chain
hdc= half double crochet
sc= single crochet
sl st= slip stitch
st or sts= stitch or stitches
repeat ** means repeat what is between the asterisks.

Note: on the chain 3 starts for the rows, I do the first chain tight, then the other two chains with normal tension, it seems to be neater for me, but ymmv. So do it however your most comfortable.

You will need:

• Chunky yarn- I used Bernat Softee Chunky in Royal Blue (it's really soft and cushy, and used less than one skein for a pair of slippers)
• Size K (6.5 mm)
• scissors or snips
• yarn needle (big one!)

Make 2

Ch 2 or make a magic ring

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc 7 times in first st or ring, sl st to join (8 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join (16 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st*, repeat ** 2 more times. Sl st to join (20 sts)

Round 4-7: Ch 3, dc in each st, sl st to join (20 sts)

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next 15 sts (16 sts)

Row 2-5: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 15 sts (16 sts)

Row 6: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 4 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next st, dc in next 5 sts (16 sts)

Break off yarn, and fold heel in half meeting up the mirrored stitches and stitch shut. Knot securely.

Edging- join in yarn, sc around the top of the slipper. I worked 2 sc in the bars, and a single crochet in each of the 4 stitches in the middle of the vamp. 

I gave the finished slippers to The Amazing Turnip Girl. She likes them a lot. I'm going to make myself a pair in pink. 

Crochet bow pattern

This hair bow is crocheted to lay flat by using chains on the edges instead of working single crochets all the way around. I was trying for a rounded Hello Kitty effect. It's made in 3 parts which are stitched together then stitched to a hair clip.

You will need:
Worsted weight yarn- I used Lily Sugar 'N Cream in  Light Blue
Size F hook
Yarn needle

American terminology
Ch=chain
Sc=single crochet
dec sc= decrease over 2 stitches in single crochet
sl st= slip stitch
st or sts= stitch or stitches

Make 2:
Ch 8 (ch 7 plus 1 to turn)
Round 1: Sc in front loop of each stitch of the starting chain, ch 2, turn chain and sc in opposite loop of starting chain, ch 2, sl st to starting sc to join (7 sts on each side, 2 ch 2 spaces)
Round 2: Ch 1 to turn, (does not count as first stitch), 2 sc in first stitch, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc next st, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, sl st to starting chain to join. (9 sts on each side, 2 ch 2 spaces)
Round 3: Ch 1 to turn, (does not count as first stitch), sc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, sc in next 9 stitches, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, sl st to starting sc to join (9 sts on each side, 2 ch 2 spaces)
Round 4: Ch 1 to turn, (does not count as first stitch), dec sc , sc in next 5 stitches, dec sc, ch 2, skip ch 2 space,  dec sc , sc in next 5 stitches, dec sc, ch 2, sl st to first sc to join (7 sts on each side, 2 ch 2 spaces)
Round 5: Ch 1 to turn, (does not count as first stitch), sc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, sc in next 7 stitches, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, sl st to starting sc to join (7 sts on each side, 2 ch 2 spaces)
Round 6: Ch 1 to turn, (does not count as first stitch), dec sc , sc in next 3 stitches, dec sc, ch 2, skip ch 2 space,  dec sc , sc in next 3 stitches, dec sc, ch 2, sl st to first sc to join (5 sts on each side, 2 ch 2 spaces)
Round 7:  Ch 1 to turn, (does not count as first stitch), sc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, sc in next 5 stitches, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, sl st to starting sc to join (5 sts on each side, 2 ch 2 spaces)
Round 8: Ch 1 to turn, (does not count as first stitch), dec sc , sc in next stitch, dec sc, ch 2, skip ch 2 space,  dec sc , sc in next stitch, dec sc, ch 2, sl st to first sc to join (3 sts on each side, 2 ch 2 spaces)
Round 9-10:  Ch 1 to turn, (does not count as first stitch), sc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, sc in next  3stitches, ch 2, skip ch 2 space, sl st to starting sc to join (3 sts on each side, 2 ch 2 spaces)

Break off end. Sew the two pieces together on the narrow ends.

Middle:
Ch 11 loosely
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, sc in each stitch across ch 1 to turn.
Row 2-4: sc in each stitch across, ch 1 to turn

Break off ends, wrap it around the narrow section of the bow and stitch ends together and secure to bow. Then stitch the bow on to a barrette, comb or hair slide!

You can also start with a chain 5, increase to 7 stitches and decrease from there to make a smaller bow. But I like this size!

Check out the gorgeous sunrise we had this morning!

Crocheted Pendant Pouch

This pouch is super easy and fairly fast to make. It uses single crochet, chain and double crochet stitches.

The small pouch can be used to hold rocks and crystals, or with a smaller chain- used as a gift bag for a ring or piece of jewelry.

You will need:

• size 10 thread
• size 7 or 1.5 mm crochet hook (size 8 if you use Boye hooks)
• tapestry needle big enough to fit the thread
• scissors

sc= single crochet

sl st= slip stich

dc=double crochet

ch= chain

st or sts= stitch or stitches

repeat ** = repeat the instructions between the asterisks 

American terminology used throughout.

Chain 2 or magic ring

Rnd 1: 6 sc in first ch or ring- sl st to join (6 stitches)

Rnd 2: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in each st around, sl st to join (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts,  *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts,  *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (30 sts)

Rnd 6: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), 2 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts*, repeat ** around, sl st to join (36 sts)

Rnd 7-9: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), sc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 10: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), sc in first st,*ch 3, skip 1 stitch, sc in next st,* repeat ** 16 times (17 loops made), ch 1, dc in first sc (18 loops total)

Rnd 11: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), sc in top of loop, *ch 3, sc in next loop*, repeat ** 16 times, ch 1, dc in first sc.

Rnd 12: repeat Rnd 11

Rnd 13: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), sc in top of loop, ch 1,* sc in next loop, ch 1*, repeat ** around, sl st to first sc to join.

Rnd 14: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), sc in each st and space around, sl st to join. 

Rnd 15-16: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), sc in each st around, sl st to join

Repeat Rnds 10-14

Rnd 15: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, ch 3, skip 3 stitches, *dc in next 3 sts, ch 3*, repeat ** around, sl st to join in 2nd ch of ch 2 (6 spaces made)

Rnd 16: Ch 1 tightly (does not count as first sc), sc in each st around. 

Break off, weave in ends

Chain a length long enough to slip over your neck, or 6 inches long if you are using it for a gift bag instead, sl st back down the length of the chain. Break off leaving ends long enough to weave in. Weave strap through the chain 3 spaces on Round 15, then tie off ends and weave them in. 

More pendant bag projects-

Knit quarter bag

Beaded Teddy Bear Pouch

Spiral texture crochet pouch

Chunky quick lip balm cozy -Crochet

This lip balm cozy works up super fast to be a nice gift and features a 1 inch button and a carabiner clip to attach it to a bag or keyring.

You will need:
Chunky yarn- I used Lion Brand Baby's First Yarn in Sea Sprite, it's thick and super soft with a nice loft which makes the cozy almost cuddly
Size L (8 mm) aluminum crochet hook
Scissors
large yarn needle
carabiner- this one is an inexpensive aluminum clip rated for 150 lbs and not to be used for climbing.
1 inch button- the one used is actually a 1 inch wood disk that was drilled with 2 holes to make it a button
embroidery floss
large tapestry needle

I love single crochet! This is done in single crochet except for 2 stitches which are trebles to create a loop for the carabiner clip.

US terminology
ch= chain
sc= single crochet
sl st= slip stitch
tr= treble crochet
dec sc= decrease single crochet; insert hook in first stitch, yo, pull loop through, leave on hook,(2 loops on hook) insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull loop through, yo, pull through the 3 loops on hook.

Body:
Chain 1 or make magic ring
Round 1: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch)- 8 sc in ring, sl st to join.
Rounds 2-6: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch) sc in each stitch, sl st to join.
Round 7: ch 1 (does not count as first stitch), sc in first stitch, tr in next 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, sl st to join.
Flap:
Row 1: ch 1 (does not count as first st)- sc in same st, sc in next 3 stitches
Row 2-3: ch 1 to turn (does not count as first st), sc in each stitch
Row 4: ch 1 to turn (does not count as first st) dec sc in first 2 stitches, dec sc in next 2 stitches (2 stitches)
Row 5: ch 1 (does not count as first st) dec sc across both stitches (1 stitch)
Row 6: ch 8, sl st to join on row 5 stitch.

Break off yarn and weave in ends. Use the embroidery floss to stitch the button in place to the front of the cozy so the loop fits over it. Slip carabiner clip under the two treble stitches.

A note on the lip balm in the photo-
This is my husband's FAVORITE lip balm. The one he uses throughout the winter here in Alaska and that kept his lips from chapping last year when he was walking a half mile from his parking spot to his job last winter in the cold cold early hours. He likes a fair amount of tingle, and this peppermint/vanilla is just right. Not sweet, moisturizes well and full of good oils. You can find Silverbear Sundries HERE on Facebook.