Crochet pattern- Slip stitch textured scrubbie

I've always considered slip stitch a way to join edges or rounds or to add surface embellishment and hadn't experimented with it as a fabric. Small swatches made in acrylic yarns make good dish scrubbies when experimenting.

To make the scrubbie or tawashi above you'll need:

• Size F crochet hook
• worsted weight acrylic yarn*
• scissors
• yarn needle

*if you use cotton or hemp, you can make a nice soft face scrubbie

All slip stitches are worked into the back loop of the stitch. Double crochet (DC) are worked in both loops on the first row with dcs, and then around the post on the rest of the rows.
Repeat ** means repeat what's between the *

Ch 12
Row 1: From 2nd chain on hook, slip stitch in back loop of each chain across.
Row 2: Ch 1 to turn, slip stitch in back loop of each stitch across
Row 3: Ch 1 to turn, slip stitch in back loop of first 2 stitches, *dc in next stitch, slip stitch in back loop of next stitch, * repeat ** 3 times (4 dcs), slip stitch in back loop of last stitch
Row 4: Ch 1 to turn, slip stitch in back loop of each stitch across.
Row 5: Ch 1 to turn, slip stitch in back loop of first 2 stitches, DC around the first DC of row 3 (yarn over, insert hook under the post of the DC, yarn over, pull out from under the post, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over, pull through last two loops on hook), slip stitch in back loop of next stitch, DC around post of DC, slip stitch in back loop of next stitch, DC around post of DC, slip stitch in back loop of next stitch, DC around post of DC, slip stitch in back loop of next two stitches.
Row 6: Repeat Row 4
Row 7: Repeat Row 5
Row 8: Repeat Row 4
Row 9: Repeat Row 5
Row 10: Repeat Row 4
Row 11: Repeat Row 5
Row 12: Repeat Row 4
Row 13: Repeat Row 5
Row 14: Repeat Row 4
Row 15: Repeat Row 5
Row 16: Ch 1 to turn, slip stitch in back loop of each stitch across
Row 17: Ch 1 to turn, slip stitch in back loop of each stitch across

I really like the slip stitch fabric. The DCs pop off the surface really well and the fabric is pretty sturdy even though it's worked in the back loops.It does have some stretch, but not much.

Ribbed Rows Dishcloth Pattern (crochet)

I had just finished a new cuff that used front post double crochets to create lines along the length when I thought "I wonder how that would look if I did a chain 1 space between each front post double crochet?"

The result was a wonderfully textured fabric that I think would be ideal for dishcloths or washcloths. 

One side of the fabric has ribs, the other side has something like flaps, almost like shades at a 90 degree angle from the ribs. Here's a photo of the shade/flapped side.

Close up of the ribbed side.

It's all done by working back and forth in rows. No embellishment added after, and it's a very simple 2 row repeat after the first 2 rows.

To work this stitch effect, you'll start with an odd number of stitches, and I think longer it would make an interesting scarf or could be used for other projects. 

Here's the  instructions for the dishcloth as shown. I'd love to see anything you did using this technique.

To work a front post double crochet- the post is the stitch, so instead of working the double crochet on the top of the stitch, you work the double crochet AROUND the stitch, so you'll yarn over, insert hook behind the stitch, and finish the double crochet.

I don't ever count my turning chain as a first stitch, if you prefer to do it counting as the first stitch, by all means do.

st -stitch

sc - single crochet

ch -chain

fpdc - front post double crochet

repeat ** means repeat the instructions between the asterisks 

For Ribbed Rows Dishcloth

Size H or 5mm hook

worsted weight cotton yarn- I'm not sure how much, I was working off a stash cone.

Chain 26 loosely

Row 1: sc in each stitch across (25 sts)

Row 2: ch 1 to turn, c in last stitch of previous row,* ch 1, skip st, sc in next st*, repeat ** across

Row 3: ch 1, sc in each stitch across

Row 4: ch 1, c in last stitch of previous row, ch 1, fpdc around sc from row 2, repeat across working a fpdc around each sc in the second row until the last one,  sc in first stitch of previous row to finish row.

Row 5: ch 1, sc in each stitch across

Row 6: ch 1, sc in last stitch of previous row, ch 1, * fpdc around fpdc, ch 1*, repeat ** across, sc in first stitch of previous row to finish row

Row 7: ch 1, sc in each stitch across

Repeat rows 6-7  12 times

Break off, weave in ends, or you can work a single crochet around the whole block and weave in ends.

Crochet Starflake Tawashi with patterns

I wasn't really sure what else to call these. They aren't really stars and they aren't snowflakes. So I'm going with starflakes.
Wikipedia page about tawashi.
I love my acrylic tawashi, they work very well for cleaning my coffee cups and coffee pot without using any dish detergent. I use cheap acrylic yarn from thrift stores. These two were made with some Wintuk yarn that's fairly rough.
I've had people say the first in the round pattern they crocheted was my Quick and Easy Washcloth, which makes a lovely gift with soap but is a little too open for using as a tawashi. So I designed these two with dishes in mind. Instead of using slip stitches to join the chain 3s to the starting dcs, I used ch 1, dc in 3rd stitch of the ch 3 because that way instead of having to slip stitch back through the dcs, you are starting right at the top of a loop.

Using worsted weight acrylic yarn and a size F hook

Ch 1 or magic ring
Round 1: ch 1(does not count as first sc), 6 sc in ring or first ch, if ring, tighten. Sl st to join
Round 2: ch 1(does not count as first sc), 2 sc in each stitch around, sl st to join (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same stitch, 2 dc in next stitch, *ch 3, 2 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next st,* repeat ** around, ch 1, dc in top chain of first ch 3. (6 ch 3 spaces)
Round 4: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in same loop, *3 dc in next loop, ch 3, 3 dc in same loop* repeat ** around until you get back to the first space. 3 dc in first space, ch 1, 1 dc in top ch of first ch 3 (6 ch 3 loops and 6 spaces)
Round 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc) 2 dc in same space, ch 1, sc in next space, ch 1, *3 dc in next ch 3 loop, ch 3, 3 dc in same loop, ch 1, sc in next space, ch 1*, repeat ** around, in first space, 3 dc, ch 3, sl st in top ch of first ch 3
Round 6: ch 1 (does not count as first sc), sc in same stitch, sc in next 3 sts, skip st, sc in next 4 sts, sc in ch 3 loop, *ch 3, sc in same loop, sc in next 4 sts, skip st, sc in next 4 stitches, sc in loop*, repeat ** around, when you're in the last ch 3 loop, ch 3, sl st to join. Break off and weave in ends.

Ch 1 or magic ring

Round 1: ch 1(does not count as first sc), 6 sc in ring or first ch, if ring, tighten. Sl st to join

Round 2: ch 1(does not count as first sc), 2 sc in each stitch around, sl st to join (12 sts)

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as first hdc and ch 1), *hdc in next st, ch 1*, repeat ** around, sl st in second ch of ch 3 to join (12 ch 1 spaces)

Round 4: ch 1 (does not count as first sc), *2 sc in space, 3 sc in next sp*, repeat ** around, sl st to join. (30 stitches)

Round 5: ch 1 (does not count as first sc), sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, *ch 3, skip 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts*, repeat ** around, ch 1, dc in first st to join. (6 ch 3 loops)

Round 6: Ch 4 (counts as first dc and ch 1), dc in same loop, ch 1, skip st, sc in next st (middle of the 3 sc on the previous round), *ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1 in ch 3 loop, skip st, sc in next st*, repeat ** around, ch 1, dc in first loop, ch 1, dc in same loop, ch 1, sl st in 3rd ch on first ch 4 to join.

Round 7:ch 1 (does not count as first sc), sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, skip st, *sc in next 4 sts, sc in loop, ch 3, sc in same loop, sc in next 4 sts*,  repeat ** around, sc in next 4 sts, sc in loop, ch 3, sc in loop, sl st to join, break off, weave in ends.

Because they are hexagons, they should work for patchwork crochet as well.