Little Pumpkin Crochet Pattern

This cute diminutive pumpkin gets it's shaping from using different stitches.

I was going to use black safety eyes, but decided I really loved the scale of the buttons, which came from my button stash.

You will need :
small amounts of orange and green worsted weight yarn- I used Peaches and Creme Bright Orange and Bright Lime
Size F hook
Scissors
Yarn needle
Eyes- I used buttons.
Stuffing

ch= chain
sc=single crochet
hdc= half double crochet
dc- double crochet
st or sts= stitch or stitches
sl st= slip stitch

Instead of working in rounds, the body of the pumpkin is worked flat then seamed. The rows are worked alternately in the front and back loops of the stitches to create the ridges.

Chain 13 loosely
Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook, sc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 2 st, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 2: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 3: ch 1 tightly, working in front loops of previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 4: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 5: ch 1 tightly, working in front loops of previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 6: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 7: ch 1 tightly, working in front loops of previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 8: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 9: ch 1 tightly, working in front loops of previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 10: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 11: ch 1 tightly, working in front loops of previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 12: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 13: ch 1 tightly, working in front loops of previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 14: ch 1 tightly (doesn't count as first stitch here or throughout), working in back loops of the previous row: sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hds in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Break off leaving long tail to sew the piece.

Put eyes in place on different rows lined up on the dcs.

Stitch seam along the 12 stitch length making a tube that's tapered on both ends. Pass needle and thread through the sc crochets on one end, and gather them tightly to close the bottom. Keep needle on yarn. Stuff the pumpkin and pass the needle and thread through the stuffing, pull it just a little in and knot, then gather the stitches on top. Pull tight and tie off securely.

Stem:
With the green yarn, chain 2.
Round 1: 6 sc in first ch, sl st to first sc to join.
Round 2-4: ch 1 tightly, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join.
Break off leaving a tail. Weave tail through last stitches and pull tight, pass the needle and thread through the pumpkin to the bottom, go around a stitch, and pass back up through the top, knot securely in the bottom of the stem and weave end in.

So very quick and easy. I hope you enjoy this project!

Book Review - Made to Play by Joel Henriques

Made by Joel  is one of my favorite style and d.i.y. blogs. So naturally, I had high expectations for his book of toys for kids. Made to Play met those expectations easily.

The projects are easy to make and are simple and elegant, giving lots of room for imagination to play. They are also inexpensive and many of them creatively re-use scraps of wood, fabric and buttons.

Most of the projects are meant for kids who are beyond the stage of putting everything in their mouths, but some can be used for babies. The embroidered soft instruments for example or the embroidery pillow doll done in one color sketch style on a contrasting background.

For kids that are a bit older, very simple doll houses invite creative thought. They are meant to be played with, not just to be pretty. Wire dolls, modern furniture, and decorations that can be a wonderful rock found while out adventuring or a twig turned into a pretty potted tree. Even at my age, I want to make myself at least a room box!

Lots of paper toys, many of them that can be packed flat to bring to restaurants and other places you may want something quiet for children to play with. My daughter loved the slotted discs that I linked to yesterday. Those impressed me, but my favorite paper project in the book is the wall hanging sculptures. Using children's art along with wire to make displays. A fish dangles from a wire wave, a bird perches on a wire branch turning children's art into something very stylish and special.

Percussion instruments made from scrap wood encourage children to make noise and move. I love the bottle cap tambourine.

The wood toys require very simple tools for the most part. While power saws are handy, you could make a lot of them using coping saws. You will also need a wood burning kit for some of them.

Paper projects, you'll need glue, markers and scissors.

Sewing projects require hand needles, floss, and a sewing machine for strong seams. They don't need any specialized sewing skills. The style of them makes them perfect for crewel/wool type embroidery in my opinion.

For wire projects, you'll need pliers and wire cutters. He uses easy to manipulate wire from hardware stores.

This is play things at their best. Encouraging creative thought and interactivity.

The instructions are well written and the projects are inexpensive to make and just charming.

You can get this book directly from the publisher, Shambhala Publishing You can get more information about my review policy here.

Crochet Little Kitty Pattern

I like this style of doll because they are sort of like chibi figures. Very simple and quick to make and the details make the doll.

 In this case, one of the details are the eyes which I won from Suncatcher Eyes. If you don't know about Suncatcher Eyes, they are gorgeously hand-safety eyes that are like sparkling jewels. She has a bunch of variations. These are 9 mm cat eyes in pink. The eyes come with the washers to attach them. You insert the post of the eye into your project. With crochet projects, they fit easily between 2 single crochet stitches done using a size F hook. Slide the washer on the post on the inside of your project to lock the eye in place. Make sure you have them set just how you want them before sliding the washers on.

The other detail is a short length of ball chain with a bell attached. I got a whole bunch of short ball chains from American Science and Surplus, search for chainettes on the website. 100 6 1/4 inch lengths with connectors for 1.45. I use them for hanging my measuring cups and spoons as well as for craft projects. The bell is from my stash. A ribbon with a bell will work just as well.

As most my patterns, this is not worked in spirals, and the first ch doesn't count as the first stitch. Feel free to modify to fit your style. I don't mind the seam up the back, and prefer how tidy it looks when I chain 1 tightly, then work my sc in that space.

Supplies:

Size F hook (4mm)

Worsted weight yarn- I used Peaches and Cream (I think, unlabeled cone)

Yarn needle

Eyes, buttons, beads or safety eyes

ribbon or chain for a collar

stuffing

plastic pellets or plastic BB type ammo*

American terminology

ch= Chain stitch

sc= single crochet

dc= double crochet

hdc= half double crochet

sl st= slip stitch

st= stitch

sts= stitches

dec= decrease crochet, in this case it means to work 1 single crochet across two spaces. Insert hook in first stitch of dec and yarn over, pull loop through stitch, (2 loops on hook) insert hook in next st and yarn over, pull through stitch(3 loops on hook), yarn over, and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

When it says repeat ** that means to repeat the instructions between the asterisks.

Pattern is worked from the top down, and 3 pieces total. The head/body and the 2 ears. 

Ch 1 or magic ring.

Rnd 1: ch 1 (does not count as first sc here or through out) 6 sc in ring or first ch, sl st in first sc to join. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 sc in same st, 2 sc in each stitch around, sl st to first sc to join (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next st,*sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *repeat ** twice more, sl st to first sc to join (16 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, * sc in next stitch, sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st,* repeat ** twice more, sl st to first sc to join (20 sts)

Rnd 5-8: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each stitch around, sl st to first sc to join (20 sts)

I placed my eyes in Rnd: 7. 

Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, sc in next st, dec in next 2 sts,* sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next st, dec in next 2 sts, * repeat ** twice more. Sl st in first sc to join. (16 sts)

Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, dec in next 2 sts, *sc in next sti, sc in next st, dec in next 2 sts, * repeat ** twice more, sl st to first sc to join (12 sts)

Stuff head firmly with stuffing

Rnd 11: Ch 1, dec across next 2 sts, dec across next stitches, repeat around.  Sl st to first sc to join(6 sts)

Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc to join (6 sts)

Rnd 13: ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join (12 sts)

Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join (12 sts)

Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next st,*sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *repeat ** twice more, sl st to first sc to join (16 sts)

Rnd 16-20: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join (16 sts)

Stuff about halfway to 2/3 with stuffing, using a hook or pencil to stuff in the neck. Pour in the plastic pellets or plastic BBs. I use high density plastic bbs because they are fairly heavy and come in a bottle with a nice pouring spout for these. The extra weight at the bottom is what makes these stand nicely. Put a bit more stuffing over the pellets, and start doing the decreasing for the bottom, hold the pellets in place with your thumb while you are working, or add a scrap of fabric and tuck the edges to hold them in place.

Rnd 21: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, dec in next 2 sts, *sc in next sti, sc in next st, dec in next 2 sts, * repeat ** twice more, sl st to first sc to join (12 sts)

Rnd 22: Ch 1, dec across next 2 sts, dec across next stitches, repeat around.  Sl st to first sc to join(6 sts)

Break off yarn and put the tail on the needle and stitch through all 6 stitches, and pull tight. Knot securely and weave in end.

Ears: (make 2) 

Ch 6- counts as ch 3 and first dc. 

In 5th ch from hook, work a hdc, in next ch, a sc, ch 2, and down the other side of the chain do a sc in the same st as last sc, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch. 

Ch 1 (doesn't count as sc) sc in same st, sc in hdc, sc in sc, 3 sc in ch 2 space, sc in sc on other side, sc in next hdc, sc in top of the ch 3. Break off leaving a long enough tail to stitch the ears in place.

Refer to the photo, I cupped the ears slightly and stitched them on the sides of the head starting in the second round of the head. 

Add collar.

Bunker Box for boys

 The miniature painting mistakes are my fault. No undo button with paint, and I wanted to get the photos and didn't take the time to scrape off the paint spills with my craft knife.

Like I mentioned before, my teenage son is very into all sorts of games including miniature games which inspired this box for boys. It uses the fancy box template I've been using for stained glass effect boxes. Click on the images for the full sized versions. I think this would be fun with plastic toy soldiers as well.

 

 

You can get the blank template from My etsy shop.